Order: Sarawak laksa with prawns, chicken strips and omelette
Anthony Bourdain's 'breakfast of the gods' — this old kopitiam is the benchmark bowl every Kuching laksa gets measured against. Spicy, thick, homemade paste; arrive early or it's gone.
Order: Poh Lam Sarawak laksa with fully peeled prawns
Home of Poh Lam Laksa, the other half of Kuching's great laksa debate. A murkier, prawn-forward broth with peeled prawns, served in a breezy kopitiam packed with families every morning.
Order: Lighter Sarawak laksa with add-on razor clams and scallops
Inside the temple-front food court on old Carpenter Street, a gentler laksa for those who find Choon Hui too fiery. Customise it with razor clams, scallops or fishballs.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
Laksa as a splurge: rich stock, piquant paste and a choice of prawn sizes all the way up to lobster. A multi-outlet Kuching favourite when you want the laksa to be the main event.
Order: Kolo mee (white or red) with char siu and minced pork, plus wonton soup
The name most Kuchingites give when asked for the definitive kolo mee, serving for more than half a century. Springy noodles, lard-shallot oil and char siu — locals swear by the red version with straight noodles.
Order: Kolo mee with homemade noodles, extra vinegar and chilli
A three-generation Chinatown coffee shop making its own noodles, a short stroll from Carpenter Street. Go early for the morning buzz and ask for that dash of vinegar.
Order: Big-bowl kolo mee with char siu and cha jiang noodles
A family name in kolo mee since the mid-1960s, when it started beside the Chinese theatre near Hong San Si Temple; the Tsai family now run several Kuching outlets. Lard, shallot-garlic oil and a splash of vinegar — the old formula, done right.
Order: Traditional kolo mee from a generations-old recipe
Going since 1957 on Padungan, with a family recipe passed down the line. Classic, unfussy bowls — and queues long enough that some regulars budget an hour.
Kuching's most famous Malay-run mee kolok, swapping lard for beef and its own oils while keeping the noodles bouncy. So well known a Prime Minister name-checked and visited it — expect a wait for tables.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
Kuching's legendary rooftop seafood court, where stalls lay out fresh fish, prawns and bamboo clams for you to pick. Don't leave without a plate of stir-fried midin fern.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
Kuching's specialty coffee heavyweight, also a training academy and organiser of the Borneo Coffee Symposium. Its work refining Sarawak Liberica makes it a must for curious coffee drinkers.
A small chicken rice stall that regulars call one of Kuching's best, with tender poached chicken and fragrant rice. It runs short hours and often sells out before lunch is over, so go early.
Order: Hainanese chicken rice with char siu and siew yuk
A BDC favourite for Hainanese chicken rice with a sharp, tangy chilli. Many order the char siu and crispy siew yuk alongside, which makes it a cheap three-meat feast.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
A well-known Hainanese chicken rice shop in Miri's Boulevard commercial area. It's popular enough that locals give directions by it. Smooth chicken, oily rice and a good ginger-chilli.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
Order: Roti canai with lamb curry; nasi briyani lamb shank
A mamak institution on Penrissen Road that has been running for close to four decades. Go for flaky roti canai dipped in lamb curry, or the briyani lamb shank, and it's open from dawn until midnight.
A Satok mamak spot famous for its beef prata roll, roti stuffed with spiced beef and rolled up. It stays open until midnight, so it's a supper favourite as well as a breakfast one.
Bintulu's go-to for loaded roti. The roti tsunami comes drowned in gravy and the roti jantan is a speciality, but there's plain roti canai too. Prices are fair and the menu is huge.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
The Sarawak bak kut teh brand people know best, and the Rock Road outlet is the Kuching regular's pick. The soup is herbal and peppery, there's a choice of pork cuts, and there is char kway to dunk.
Go Fun Kee's Miri branch is a fixture in the Boulevard commercial area and the usual answer when Mirians want bak kut teh. It serves the same herbal, peppery broth as the Kuching original.
The charcoal pork satay stall inside the temple-front food court on Carpenter Street, a Kuching treat you won't find on the peninsula. It has been grilling for years, and the sweet, smoky sticks go well with a laksa from the next stall.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.
Order: Big pork pau, char siu pau, butter pau, siu mai
A roadside kopitiam on Padungan that Kuching knows for its steamed buns, especially the big pork pau, plus a tray of dim sum. It's an all-day breakfast stop, and kolo mee and laksa are on offer as well.
A Miri noodle-and-roast shop where crackly siew yuk and char siu end up on rice or in a curry noodle soup. Kolo mee and fish head noodles fill out the daytime menu, and it opens for dinner too.
⚠️ Last confirmed before 2025 — check it is open before you go.