The best breakfast in Kuching is a bowl of Sarawak laksa or kolo mee, and you need to be out early because many of the best shops stop serving around lunchtime. Start with Choon Hui Cafe for laksa and Sin Lian Shin for kolo mee, and expect to pay about RM6 to RM20 a bowl.
Sarawak laksa
The local version is not like any other laksa in Malaysia. It has a spiced, coconut-rich broth with prawns, chicken strips and omelette, and every family in Kuching has an opinion on who makes it best.
Choon Hui Cafe
Choon Hui Cafe on Jalan Ban Hock is the bowl most others get measured against, and the one tied to Anthony Bourdain's "breakfast of the gods" line. The paste is thick, spicy and homemade. Open from 7am until about 1pm, and the rest day varies, so check first. Bowls run RM8 to RM15.
Chong Choon Cafe
Chong Choon Cafe (Poh Lam Laksa) is the home of Poh Lam Laksa, the other half of the great Kuching debate. The broth is darker and more prawn-forward, and the prawns come fully peeled. It opens about 6.30am to noon, closed on Tuesdays, at RM10 to RM15.
Mei Xin Laksa at Lau Ya Keng
If you prefer something gentler, Mei Xin Laksa @ Lau Ya Keng sits in the temple-front food court on Carpenter Street. Add razor clams, scallops or fishballs. Details on this one were last checked some time ago, so confirm it is open before you go. Expect RM8 to RM15.
Mom's Laksa Kopitiam
Mom's Laksa Kopitiam in Petra Jaya makes a thicker, creamier, spicier bowl with big prawns, and it keeps longer hours, from 8am to 4.30pm daily. It is reported as halal, though we have not confirmed certification. Prices are RM10 to RM20.
Kolo mee
Kolo mee is Kuching's everyday noodle: springy noodles tossed dry and topped with char siu and minced pork, often with lard and shallot oil.
Sin Lian Shin
Sin Lian Shin at Sin Sin Park, Jalan Green, is the name many Kuchingites give first and has been serving for more than half a century. Choose white or red, and add a wonton soup. Daily 6am to 1pm, RM6 to RM10.
Ta Wan Kung
Ta Wan Kung has been a family name in kolo mee since the mid-1960s, and the Tsai family now runs several outlets. Try the big bowl with char siu. Tuesday to Sunday, 6.30am to 12.30pm, RM6 to RM10.
Kim Joo
Kim Joo on Ewe Hai Street is a three-generation Chinatown coffee shop that makes its own noodles. Ask for that extra dash of vinegar and chilli. It is a short walk from Carpenter Street, so it pairs well with Mei Xin. Tuesday to Sunday, 6.30am to 2pm, RM6 to RM10.
How to plan it
- Go early. Be at your first stop by 7.30am, especially at weekends.
- Split the bowls. Share a laksa and a kolo mee so you have room for a second shop.
- Walk Chinatown. Kim Joo and Mei Xin are close together, which makes for an easy morning.
Halal note
Except for Mom's Laksa, the shops here are listed as non-halal in our data, and kolo mee is usually made with pork and lard. We have not confirmed halal certification for any place in this list, so look for a valid JAKIM certificate if this matters to you.