An afternoon of kokoreç and stuffed mussels at Mercan, Kadıköy

Mercan's name tells you what it's about. Kokoreç is one of Türkiye's great street foods: lamb intestine, traditionally wrapped and grilled, then chopped and seasoned before it goes into bread. Lamb intestine is the house speciality, so that's what our editor ordered, in bread.

In our editor's photos, it comes in a soft, glossy bun wrapped in the shop's printed paper. Lift the top and the filling is piled edge to edge, finely chopped and dusted with dried herbs and red spice, with bits of red chilli running through it. For Malaysians, the idea won't feel that strange. We've long known that the parts other people skip can be the tastiest thing on the table.

Also on the table was a fish sandwich, a long crusty loaf holding a grilled fillet with crisp lettuce and raw onion. It's a lighter, fresher bite to set against the richness of the kokoreç, and a good option if someone at your table isn't ready for intestine.

Then the mussels. Midye dolma are a classic Istanbul snack: mussel shells packed with seasoned rice and eaten with a squeeze of lemon. They arrive on a round steel plate with lemon wedges, looking plain and dark until you open one up. Turkish food site Yemek.com says many regulars actually come to Mercan for the midye dolma despite the name on the sign, and praises them for freshness, balanced seasoning and generous filling.

Our editor also ordered the butter shrimp, served in a dark clay dish with the orange sauce still bubbling. It's the most photogenic thing here, and a good one to share and mop up with bread. Reviewers mention shrimp in garlic butter among their favourites too.

Our editor's verdict on the whole spread was that it was all delicious. If you want to go further, diners also speak warmly of the anchovies, the calamari and the freshly cut fries, and Time Out's listing mentions tripe soup, köfte and skewers. Reviewers enjoy the buzz of sitting among the market crowd, and the friendly, quick service.

🍽️ What to order

• Kokoreç in a soft bun, the house speciality
• Midye dolma, mussels stuffed with seasoned rice
• The fish sandwich
• Butter shrimp in a clay dish

💡 Good to know

• Squeeze lemon over the mussels before you eat them
• Order a few dishes and share, so you can try both the kokoreç and the seafood
• If intestine is not for you, the fish sandwich and mussels are easy alternatives
• It stays open very late, so it also works as a post-dinner snack stop
• Sit downstairs for the market atmosphere